It's been on the list for quite a while but either flights were too expensive or the inter-island connections did not match our timetable. But finally, we puzzled together a plan to visit 4 of the caboverdean islands: Fogo, São Vicente, Santo Antão and Santiago.
The main flight via Lisbon went well. Upon arrival at Praia Aiport at 11 pm we were welcomed by 25°C and Telo, the shuttle driver. We only stayed for the night, heading to Fogo the next afternoon.
Day 1:
A 30 minute propeller plane ride with a super scenic view later, we picked up a rental car in São Filipe and headed to a supermarket with counter service. So you had to order the products in question from a lady, who also poured drinks to locals.
Next up, a long bumpy drive uphill. From sea level to Portela we had to overcome a difference of 1700 altitude meters. Arriving after dark, we went straight to our room at Casa Alcido and enjoyed the bedroom view towards the Pico do Fogo. Not a bit of light pollution allowed us to view tons and tons of stars as well as the milky way, which was clearly visible with the bare eyes.
Day 2:
As we went to bed early, we were able to watch the sunrise without setting the alarm. After having a local breakfast we went for a walk in the lava fields. The black rocks radiated heat, the sun came down with all its force, there was not a single spot of shade. A nice breeze however made the temperatures bearable. The landscape was simply stunning, besides the wind there was not a single sound or person along the way. Such an excellent place to detox.
In the afternoon, we took the car to explore more of the area. What a barren landscape but still so fascinating.
After dinner at the accommodation's restaurant, we took a tray with breakfast snacks to the room, set the alarm to 5:30 am and went to bed.
Day 3:
At 6 am the next day, Eurico met us outside and guided us up the volcano. 4,5 km one way, 2 of which were through the village with little difference in altitude. The remaining 2,5 km however were uphill only, with a difference in altitude of 1000m. With various stops to catch our breath and hydrate properly, it took us 3.5 hours. Again, besides the wind and the crunching sound of the volcano rocks beneath our feet there was not a single noise. The higher we got, the blurrier became the landscape down below.
Due to cloudy weather, it was extremely windy on top of the caldera, but that did not affect the mood and pride of having made it all the way up.
Going down was yet another adventure. It included 30 minutes of sliding down loose, dusty gravel. Digging the heels in first, we ended up sinking in calf-deep. Sounds easy, but believe me, it was rather exhausting. At the bottom we had to empty out shoes first before continuing the walk.
We took the rest of the day to relax, read and simply enjoy the silence in the small village of Portela.
The last eruption occurred in 2014. The guide told us a lot about what was happening. The families rebuilt their homes by themselves, slowly more and more houses generate power through solar panels (before they used generators just for a few hours a day), the water is rationed to 1m3 per day. Home birth was a standard up until 20 years ago. Families grow fruit and vinyards to support themselves.
Day 4:
We circled the island by car. 80 km of which 2/3 are still cobble stone roads. Uphill on cobble stone, we didn't exceed 30-40 km/h in second or third gear.
Along the way we stopped for pictures, spotted the endemic gray head kingfisher and visited the coffee factory in Mosteiros which sells their beans to Starbucks.
Day 4:
Time to pack the bags. Last to do before returning the car and taking the flight via Santaigo to São Vicente: a massage. 1 hour, 4000 escudos which equals 36 Euros.
So, the overall bottom line: AWESOME.
Portela, up in the caldera is a stunning place. I loved the peace and quiet, the views, the friendly atmosphere, the pleasant temperatures!
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