The Wetsuit.
Despite the fact that I curse a lot while putting it on, I truly appreciate it.
It feels like a love-hate relationship between the two of us. I have a hard time pulling it up over my feet and heels. And even once I suceeded, pulling it up further is rough on my nails and fingers as I hardly manage to grab it properly.
I am grateful that it is keeping me warm in the cold atlantic ocean and preventing my skin from getting sunburned.
The Leash.
If it wasn't there, I would have lost the surf board so many times. If it just wasn't getting in my way all the time, twisting around my legs.
The Weever.
I thought I was save in these Ofir waters. No jelly fish in sight, no sea urchins to be expected, smooth sand underneath my feet. I am smarter now, knowing that weevers are hiding in the sand, stinging when feeling in danger. This is what happened when I stepped on one. Luckily I am not allergic and it only felt like a bee sting.
The Green and the White Waves.
The whites are easy to catch but sadly too close to the beach preventing you from getting a nice long ride of the wave.
The greens are harder to catch and if too steep for beginners, they are likely to cause an unpopular nose dive.
The Injuries.
Well, there's quite the chance of getting hurt when trying a new sport, especially when you are used to sitting in a save office environment where the only danger is getting a paper cut.
• My right knee is bruised from getting on the board and getting up from the board.
• The upper sides of my feet are red and scraped up.
• My left wrist and right foot are overstretched from falling off the board in shallow waters
• My left hip is showing a bruised line from carrying the board into the water and lifting it over smaller waves.
• The back of my right knee is scraped up from having a crease in the wet suit.
• Both ring fingers are scraped from putting the wetsuit on.
• Other than that, the arms, shoulders and back are sore.
The Feeling.
It is simply awesome to be out. Trying to read and connect with the element of water. Being surrounded by the sound of the ocean, tasting the saltwater on your lips, feeling the sun on your face.
But the best of all is when you caught a wave on the right spot and you feel how its strenght is carrying you.
And afterwards, you are tired and exhausted, saltwater in your nose, bones heavy, but happy like a kid after playing in the pool.
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