Border Crossing • Family Reunion • Long-term Pilgrim

Day 6: Viana do Castelo 》 Caminha - 14 km by foot, 12 km by train

Day 7: 》 Oia - 17 km

It was either a misunderstanding or my wishful thinking* that the water taxi brings us to A Guarda Port.

*because that would have saved us 4 km of walking

Instead we crossed the border to Spain simply by crossing the river in a little motor boat. After a short but bumpy ride we reached the other side. There was no jetty in sight but the boat slowed down. The driver asked if we wanted a stamp in our credencial which we of course did. Then he asked for payment.

Like in a good book, you could feel the tension rising among us pilgrims. So I dared to ask, whether we will set dry foot on the Spanish mainland. The driver confirmed...and with a bit of engine power and momentum, the front of the boat landed on the beach where we were asked to climb off.

Once we had reached the port by foot, we refilled our water supplies and continued on the Galician Camino. 

After a while our batteries were running empty and we were hoping to find a Cafe, however, there was none in sight.

On a quiet side road, I stopped a passing car, asking for a place to get a drink. They confirmed the expected: there simply was none around. 

Whether out of pity or hospitality, the man asked us to walk down the road to his house where he'd invite us.

It turned out that they celebrated his mother's 70 birthday with the family. By the time we reached the house, they had already prepared chairs, tortilla and cold drinks for us.

The conversation to our friendly host revealed that he was born in Giesen as his father used to work at the Gail Keramikfabrik. 

The last 6 km of the day passed slowly and demanded the last bit of energy we had left. However, one more encounter showed us that despite all pain and exhaustion, this trip is so worth it. 

A pilgrim walked towards us, an elderly, thin man, showing signs of a rough life. He asked us for a supermarket in broken English. Realizing he was German, we started talking and learned that he had walked here from Germany or better said, that he has been some sort of pilgrim for the past 14 years now. He has travelled more than 40.000 km by foot and even walked to Jerusalem. Living on seasonal jobs, sleeping in churches, hostels or even outdoors, having all his belongings with him, he made a satisfied impression and left a big impression on us.

Today ends with hard, burning feet, tired, heavy legs and some blisters from the strong sun ... but also with a room with ocean view, a beautiful sunset along with the sound of waves crashing on shore.

I am fulfilled.